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DIY · hurricane prep

Hurricane checklist — before + after.

A Houston-specific playbook. Twenty minutes of prep saves you a green pool + potentially thousands in equipment damage.

Video walkthrough coming soon.

Before the storm (24–48 hours out)

Do NOT drain your pool. A drained pool during flooding can “pop” out of the ground from hydrostatic pressure. Leave the water in.

  1. 01
    Double-dose chlorine
    Bump FC to shock level (12–15 ppm) before the storm hits. Rain dilutes chlorine + brings in organic matter — you want a big reserve so the pool doesn’t crash to green during the outage.
  2. 02
    Lower the water level 6–12 inches
    Not more — you want water weight to hold the shell down. Just enough to give heavy rain somewhere to go without overflowing and flooding the deck. Backwash your filter to drop it, or use the pump on “waste.”
  3. 03
    Turn off the equipment breaker
    Kill power to the pump, heater, salt cell, and lights at the breaker panel. Storm surges through the electrical system are the #1 cause of dead pool equipment after a hurricane.
  4. 04
    Remove or lash down loose items
    Floats, toys, cleaning poles, robotic cleaners — anything that can become a projectile. Patio furniture either into the garage or tied down.
  5. 05
    Take a photo of your equipment pad
    Serial numbers, plumbing, gauges. If the pad gets damaged and you need to file an insurance claim, before-photos make the process 10x faster.

After the storm

Once the storm passes and it’s safe to be outside:

  1. 01
    Skim heavy debris before it sinks
    Leaves, branches, roof shingles. If it lands on the bottom, wait a day to skim so it settles; picking up from the bottom without stirring is easier.
  2. 02
    Inspect the equipment pad visually
    Look for cracked plumbing, missing sections, damaged filter housing, water inside the pump motor housing. Don’t re-energize the breaker until you’ve confirmed everything is dry and intact.
  3. 03
    Turn equipment back on carefully
    Pump first. Let it prime and circulate for an hour before turning on the heater or salt cell. If the pump won’t prime after 15 minutes, there’s either an air leak (check the pump lid) or debris in the impeller.
  4. 04
    Test the water
    Rain drops CYA (dilutes stabilizer) and TA. Chlorine is probably still elevated from the pre-storm dose but drops fast as it kills off contamination. Retest every 12 hours for the first two days.
  5. 05
    Rebalance in the standard order
    Alkalinity → pH → chlorine → CYA. If your CYA is now under 20 ppm from the rain dilution, add stabilizer. If chlorine is under 1 ppm, shock again — the pool is vulnerable until FC is back in range.
  6. 06
    Watch for a week
    Post-hurricane pools go green 3–5 days after the storm because contaminated runoff keeps landing and the chemistry hasn’t stabilized. Test daily, brush 2x, and be ready to run a quick SLAM if needed.

When to just call me

If the equipment pad took obvious damage, if the pool is 10‐15 feet of green sludge after a week without power, or you just don’t want to spend Labor Day doing SLAM math — text me. Post-hurricane recovery is the busiest week of the year for us, but I keep slots open for it.

Chemical only
Chemistry, handled.
You just clean.

Weekly photon-reader testing and all chemicals included — flat $150/mo. You keep doing the physical cleaning.

Doing it yourself
With Chemical Only
Chemicals
$110–$140 / mo at Lowes
Included — tabs, shock, acid, stabilizer, algaecide, whatever your pool needs
Water testing
Strip test (drifts every 6 mo) or monthly supply-store dip
Photon reader — same weekly, on-site
Your time
30–60 min / week
None — you just clean
Monthly total
$110–$140 + your time
$150 flat
Text me about Chemical Only
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